Esmen Carinderia in Cebu: The Home of Linarang
Esmen Carinderia was founded in the 1960s as a simple neighborhood eatery by grandparents Nicolasa “Esing” Garcia and Nemesio “Menie” Garcia, whose names form “ESMEN.”
What began as a small, family initiative has remained a family-run business for decades. Today, it is managed by the Garcia children, with Nemesio Garcia Jr., also known as “JR,” serving as the main cook.
JR learned the craft directly from his father and has been running the kitchen since the 1990s together with his siblings Teresita, Josefina, Edgardo, Felipe, Reynaldo, Gloria, and Zenaida.
IMAGE from Esmen Carinderia
Esmen Carinderia is a humble, no-frills diner tucked in Barangay Pasil, Cebu City. The carinderia is best known for its iconic linarang, a tangy, sour fish soup that draws locals daily and curious travelers from around the world. The experience remains deeply local, defined by a simple setting, bold flavors, and cooking rooted in tradition.
IMAGE from Esmen Carinderia
The Linarang na Tagutungan (Php 120) stands as the signature dish, made of porcupine fish, sour, savory, and deeply comforting. This is what Esmen is famous for and what sells out daily.
Linarang na Tagutungan (Php 120) / IMAGE from Department of Tourism
Also available is the Linarang na Mamsa, Tinola, or other fish stew for the day (Daily Catch) (Php 120), where fresh seafood is prepared simply to highlight natural flavors.
IMAGE from Esmen Carinderia
Local side dishes complement the linarang, depending on the day’s market offerings. These include grilled pork, kinapusan, and chorizo, lumpia, and itlog na pula, as well as grilled fish priced depending on the size. These seasonal Cebuano dishes complete the meal while reflecting what is available from the market.
Grilled Pork / IMAGE from Esmen Carinderia
Behind these dishes is JR Garcia, a self-taught cook who learned directly from his father, the previous head cook of Esmen. A licensed marine engineer by training, JR returned home after an overseas accident and discovered that cooking was his true calling. His style is instinctive, deeply traditional, and rooted in Cebuano home cooking.
IMAGE from Department of Tourism
In 2025, his work earned Esmen Carinderia a Michelin Bib Gourmand, recognizing exceptional quality at great value.
