Chef Paolo Nesi Shares His Passion for L’Opera Ristorante Italiano
A long-standing icon and landmark in Manila’s dining scene, L’Opera Ristorante Italiano has been delighting guests with traditional Italian cuisine since October 15, 1994.
Behind the restaurant’s celebrated dishes is Chef Luciano Paolo Nesi, a man whose culinary roots run deep in the traditions of Italy. Raised in a family of restaurateurs, Chef Paolo’s journey was influenced by the rich flavors of his mother’s and grandmother’s cooking. Today, he continues to honor those traditions while crafting dishes that resonate with both local and international patrons.
Chef Luciano Paolo Nesi / IMAGE from Philippine Primer
“I was born into a restaurateur family, so I was immersed in Italian cooking all my life,” Chef Paolo shares, reflecting on the beginnings of his culinary journey. “When I come up with a dish, it is always inspired by my mother’s and grandmother’s cuisine. While I have been curious to try new trends and technologies, I always return to tradition—the dishes that bring back memories and warm my soul.”
Chef Paolo’s approach to cooking is not about merely following recipes; it’s about evoking memories and emotions. “I don’t serve anything my mother wouldn’t eat,” he says, adding, “Cooking is about transmitting the love for food passed down to me by my family.”
IMAGE from Philippine Primer
While Chef Paolo’s cooking style is deeply personal, it is also rooted in the rich culinary traditions of Maremma, Tuscany—a region known for its beautiful seaside and wild forests. “Maremma is like Italy’s best-kept secret,” he says. “It’s a chef’s perfect playground, featuring fresh seafood and game that easily make their way onto our menu.”
His menu at L’Opera Ristorante Italiano is an homage to this region, with dishes like Spaghetti Vongole and Lobster Ravioli becoming customer favorites. The restaurant is known for its uncompromising approach to authentic flavors. “I will propose dishes I know the Japanese love, but I will never alter a recipe to cater to trends,” Chef Paolo explains.
Spaghetti Vongole / IMAGE from L’Opera Ristorante Italiano
Lobster Ravioli / IMAGE from L’Opera Ristorante Italiano
For first-time Japanese customers, Chef Paolo recommends several signature dishes that he believes will resonate with Japanese diners. “For starters, our Sea Scallops, Dry-Aged Swordfish, Beef or Fish Carpaccio, and Deboned Fresh Crab Salad are always favorites,” he shares. “For pasta, Vongole and Lobster Ravioli never disappoint. And of course, the Cacio e Pepe—it’s not just a dish; it’s an experience!”
Fresh Crab Salad / IMAGE from L’Opera Ristorante Italiano
His mains include the Crispy Skin Branzino, Veal Scaloppine with Porcini Sauce, and a selection of dry-aged beef. Chef Paolo’s Tiramisu is also a beloved dessert, rounding out a truly memorable dining experience.
At L’Opera, the focus is always on fresh, high-quality ingredients. “Most of our fresh herbs and vegetables comes from farms in Tagaytay with which we have many years of collaborations since we have been opened for more than 30 years.” Chef Paolo explains. “Our tuna is sustainably sourced and line-caught, and we work with loyal suppliers to bring in the best Italian products, like the world-renowned Pecorino cheese from my hometown.”
IMAGE from L’Opera Ristorante Italiano
Chef Paolo believes that the best ingredients for Italian cooking are herbs and spices. “Italian cuisine is simple. We don’t drown our dishes in butter or sauces. With just a handful of high-quality ingredients, the flavors speak for themselves.”
One of the most cherished traditions at L’Opera is the Sunday Roast, inspired by Chef Paolo’s childhood family gatherings. “Sunday lunch is when the whole family gathers around the table,” he recalls. “It’s when fresh pasta is made, and larger selections of dishes are served. It’s a time to relax and bond, just like the Filipinos do. I encourage families to bring their children along.”
This heartwarming tradition has become a signature feature at L’Opera, offering guests an opportunity to experience a taste of Italy’s familial warmth and comfort.
Opening L’Opera in Manila in 1994 was not without its challenges. “In the beginning, we had to import many products since they weren’t available locally,” Chef Paolo recalls. “But now, I can find everything I need, and some local products have surpassed the quality of imported ones.”
Despite the challenges, Chef Paolo remains unwavering in his commitment to quality and tradition. “We cook with wine, just like the Japanese use sake or mirin sauce; they use soia sauce, we use balsamic. We share similar principles—focusing on fresh ingredients and never covering the main products with too many sauces or spices,” he explains.
L’Opera is not just a restaurant—it is a home for Chef Paolo’s extended family. “We are part of the community,” he shares. “As a certified sommelier, I also enjoy teaching young students at Enderun Colleges on advanced wine studies and courses by The Wine & Spirit Education Trust.”
Chef Paolo is deeply committed to giving back. “We’ve done events for the benefit of people here in the Philippines. Recently, we prepared food for 500 street children,” he says. The restaurant has also been involved in charitable efforts, such as hosting a charity dinner after the devastating earthquake in Italy five years ago. “Normally, on October 15, we have a big anniversary party. We invite people, personalities, and our best customers for a celebration with free dinner and live entertainment. But due to the earthquake, I decided to turn it into a charity dinner to help those affected,” he recalls.
Chef Paolo’s commitment to excellence has been widely recognized through several prestigious awards. Among these is the Ospitalità Italiana Quality Certification, a notable designation granted by the Italian Chamber of Commerce, which ensures that L’Opera upholds the high standards of authentic Italian cuisine.
IMAGE from L’Opera Ristorante Italiano
In 2016, Chef Paolo further enhanced his expertise by completing the Italian Wine Professional certification. Additionally, his contributions to the global appreciation of Italian cuisine were acknowledged when he participated in the inaugural International Conference of Italian Restaurateurs in the World in Rome in 2004. These accolades reflect Chef Paolo’s dedication to the craft and his ongoing influence in the culinary world.
IMAGE from L’Opera Ristorante Italiano
IMAGE from L’Opera Ristorante Italiano
As L’Opera celebrates over 30 years of culinary excellence, Chef Paolo’s vision for the future is clear. “I see myself going back to tradition,” he says. “While there’s a trend for colorful, curated dishes, I find refuge in the simplicity and authenticity of traditional Italian cuisine.”
To the Japanese community that has supported L’Opera for over three decades, Chef Paolo shares a heartfelt message, “We cook with love and respect for our ingredients, just like you do in Japan. We are always happy to suggest the right dish, so please don’t hesitate to ask.”
L’Opera Ristorante Italiano continues to thrive, thanks to Chef Paolo Nesi’s unwavering dedication to quality, authenticity, and the culinary traditions of his heritage. With every dish, he invites guests to experience the true essence of Italian hospitality.
